NEW YORK FASHION WEEK: FALL 2014 READY-TO-WEAR

After taking a hiatus much longer than originally expected I have returned with a, hopefully, more knowledgeable and mature voice. For the most part I've been busy with work and school, feeding my brain with books such as Alexander McQueen: The Life and Legacy and John Varvatos: Rock In Fashion during my time down. Lucky for me, after taking it easy during the Haute Couture and Menswear collections, I've returned just in time!

The fashion industry is constantly moving and looking for the next big thing. For its' second season in a row, website VFILES kicked off New York Fashion Week with a bang. Chosen by the online platform's team, three up-and-coming designers showcased their emerging talents at the bustling Eyebeam gallery.

First up was ASSK, a Paris-based Australian brand by designers Agatha Kowalewski and Sarah Schofield. The post-apocalyptic collection drew on urban knitwear and quilted jackets printed with real tree camouflage, SIM cards, garbage and pills. Appropriately, the models marched to "Survivor" by Destiny's Child.

Parsons' graduate Melitta Baumeister's monochrome and silicone-heavy collection was cool and calculated, featuring structured jackets and shirts, neoprene dresses and rubber banana embellishments. It was undeniably the most sculptural and minimal of the collections.

Inspired by eighties horror films, South Korean designer Hyein Seo showcased kitschy windbreakers, chokers and dresses with the word FEAR printed across them. Styled with ghoulish faux fur stoles, the imaginative collection reminded me a bit of Jeremy Scott and was my personal favorite of the three.

From L to R: ASSK, Melitta Baumeister, Hyein Seo

On a wintry Saturday night, Alexander Wang dragged the fashion elite away from Manhattan to the Duggal Greenhouse in Brooklyn. Predictably, the show was predominantly urban influenced. Shift dresses were decorated with snap pockets efficiently cut to hold Moleskines, smartphones, lighters and lipstick. Thigh high riding boots were styled with down puffers and vibrant parkas. The viral moment? The high-tech finale. Lights when down and a dozen models strutted out, taking their place on a circular conveyor belt. Their heat-activated leather clothes changed colors- from black to blue, green to yellow- then slowly faded. Needless to say, it was worth the trip to BK.

In a world where subcultures and new trends are digitally available to the public instantaneously, Shayne Oliver has managed to create a brand for misfit downtown kids that manages remains enigmatic and foreign. Hip hop heavy hitters Kanye West, Kendrick Lamar and A$AP Rocky have all embraced Hood By Air wholeheartedly and contributed to it's cult like following.

This season, Oliver elaborated his gender bending aesthetic with leather embossed pieces, magnified bruise football sweaters, grommeted jackets and pants. It all climaxed in a savage vogue off, not dissimilar to Rick Owen's epic team of stomp queens, featuring Oliver himself at the forefront. This kind of unfiltered energy reinforces my opinion on HBA: Shayne's is the rarest and most authentic of streetwear labels.

Jeremy Scott's shows are always campy, and this season's was no different. His main focus this time around was all things sporty. From the fuzzy football jersey maxi dresses and the leather basketball print bomber jackets, to the tube sock dresses and score board print pants, Scott's vision was clear. Innovative? Not exactly, but Scott brings a sense of light heartedness and fun to the sometimes overbearingly austere fashion industry.

Marc by Marc Jacobs or, as it will now be known, MBMJ changed drastically this season. Luella Bartley and Katie Hillier not only took over as designers, but brought an undeniably British twist to the otherwise New York-centric brand. Models unleashed their inner BMX queen in patched up boyfriend jeans, bandanas masking their mouths, shimmery dresses that read REVOLUTION and BUNNY HOP! What caught my eye the most, however, were the moon shoe inspired platform sneakers. Garnering approval from Marc Jacobs himself, Bartley and Hillier are on track to bring MBMJ back to it's roots.

New York Fashion Week was a whirlwind of amazing collections and I could not have written about all of them, so I had to narrow it down to my top 5 favorites. With much more to come, I look forward to analyzing more shows. Next up: London!

I'M BACK!!! / THROWBACK THURSDAY: PAGAN POETRY

My travels through Europe have gone by and I have returned home with many exciting stories, ideas and photos! After two weeks of being home from the five week excursion I feel rejuvenated and ready to share all these amazing things with you. Most notably, while in Paris I spent a day wandering the streets and visiting all of the flagship stores. Definitely one of my highlights of the trip, it was so incredible to be able to see all of the pieces I've been silently obsessing over in person and actually being able to touch them! (Yes, I know it sounds silly but I don't have access to designer brands here!) I will be writing an entire post dedicated to all of the concept stores soon, with photos. To ease myself back into blogging I thought it would be fun to do another Throwback Thursday post. (I realize I'm not posting this on a Thursday but I'm typing it on one, so it counts... right?)

Having grown up listening to the Icelandic alien woman that is Bjork, I have always been fascinated by her unusual imagery, enticing voice and conceptual lyrics. Always managing to shock and confuse with her progressive videos, when 2001's Verspertine came out its second single "Pagan Poetry" did just that.
The song itself is a bizarre 5 minute ethereal masterpiece and the video is no different; stated as a story "about a woman preparing herself for marriage and for her lover," it was directed by prolific fashion photographer Nick Knight and featured, sometimes graphic, blurred out images of ejaculation, fellatio and skin piercing. Bjork appears in a in-body pierced wedding dress designed by the late Alexander McQueen, which covers only the bottom half of her body, leaving her pearl-adorned breasts free and in plain sight.
MTV banned it in the United States, only later showing the unedited version on MTV2 during a "20 Most Controversial Videos" countdown.
When asked about the video, Nick Knight explained "I gave her [Bjork] a Sony Mini DV Camera and asked her to shoot her own private scenes [...] She wanted me to make a film about her love life, so I merely gave it back to her and said, 'Film your love life.'" Genius.

SUMMER JAMS

The beautiful weather I've been blessed with has made it difficult to pry myself away from the beach and the garden to work on new blog posts. Of course I love researching fashion and writing about what I've learnt, but the fickle breeze is daunting here and I speak from experience when I say it is better to get out into the heat as fast as possible and soak up the last of the sun's rays.
So, in honor of summer, I thought I would do something a bit different and share a playlist featuring a couple new and old songs I've been listening to  while reading, tanning and walking in the heat.
Happy summer!

MENSWEAR SPRING/SUMMER 2014: PART 2

By the time you read this the menswear Spring/Summer 2014 collections will have come to a close a week or so ago, leaving many in a state of reverie. This post has been a long time coming due to the beautiful weather and sun rays I've been soaking up, but I have been busily viewing all the photos and videos of every runway show I can get my hands on. I would have loved to write about all the major collections, but with so many it's proven to be very difficult, therefore I've decided to speak of my favorites!

Riccardo Tisci's reinvention of Givenchy has made him one of my favorite contemporary designers. His constant innovation has popularized of the most progressive minds in menswear, aswell as womenswear and this season was no different, his collection appearing as a clear standout. Although he essentially reworks the same silhouettes every season, his prints are always spectacular. In previous seasons, he drew from his past, however this season he went in a different direction. The prints were based on the technology of sound, broken down and rearranged into tribal patterns. Backstage after the show, Tisci explained that the "Givenchy man" has always been a warrior and that this season he wanted to start working on a nerd. The freedom of African boys and the way they layered their clothes also played a large part in the collection. The result is a futuristic, yet retro study of techno-tribalism and reminds me of Star Wars! Tisci's womenswear and menswear collections often go hand in hand, so it will be interesting to see his upcoming Spring/Summer 2014 collection!

Raf Simons' collection was shown in an obscure gallery in an industrial suburb outside of Paris, flanked by Alexander Calder's kinetic sculptures. The bulk of the collection was held together by an array of oversized t-shirts worn as dresses, shorts with high hemlines and pinafores, playing with gender stereotypes. The prints on the garments were most definitely a comment on consumerism; large bold lettering reading "THIS IS THE NEW SHAPE" and "ARTIFICIALLY FLAVORED" made models appear as walking billboards. However, it was done in a free and light way so the they looked fun and wearable, without appearing too serious.

Appropriately named after Lou Reed's classic 1972 song, Rick Owens' "Vicious" opened to the banshee sounds of an Estonian death metal band called Winny Puhh. The models practically ran to the beat of the sledgehammering drums, leaving onlookers in awe. For those who caught fleeting glimpses of the warrior-like men, the garments were fierce in gothic athleticism; long-sleeved tees worn over shorts, leather and mesh tanktops showing flesh underneath and zippers were all mainstays. Although this collection is not a breakaway from Owens' established aesthetic, it packs a menacing punch that I'm particularly fond of.
While researching this collection, I came across an interview Owens did in which he states "The biggest risk I take is staying true to myself and doing my thing, which could be repetitive to a lot of people..."

Swedish brand Acne Studios' designer Jonny Johansson openly attributes his latest collection to abstract art innovator Hilma af Klint, who's progressive paintings came well before Mondrian and Picasso. Klint's palette of pastel pinks, yellows and blues are what drew Johansson in. The influence is obvious in the metallic-heavy collection; washed out red, pink and blue fabrics were used to make sweatshirts, dinner and bomber jackets, and wide legged trousers. I always find it interesting when designers go in complete different directions, trying new and exciting things. In this case, Johansson rebelled against the sportswear trend and went for a 1970s throwback which I absolutely love.

Although I commended Jonny Johansson for his alternative outlook, it is not to say that I don't love the sportswear trend; I'm not quite sure what it is about it, but I'm a sucker for oversized jerseys, bomber jackets, athletic shorts and sweatshirts.
I was previously unaware of relatively Korean designer Juun.J who designs strictly menswear, however when I stumbled upon reoccurring photos of his latest collection on Tumblr and Instagram, I thought it worthwhile to check out his collection in its entirety and I was not disappointed.
Traditionally labelled a deconstructionist this season he tackled American athleticism, offering thigh-high shorts, boxy sweatshirts embellished with 3D numbers, and large trench coats. I love the blown up silhouettes and nerdy styling meets athletic aesthetic of this collection and am looking forward to following Juun.J's future shows!

One word to describe Yohji Yamamoto's Spring/Summer 2014 collection? Layering. When asked about the inspiration behind the look, Yamamoto explained he was fascinated with nomads and the way they wear all the clothing they own and somehow turn it into a fashion statement. Pants, shorts and jackets were baggy and airy, primarily in shades of grey and accented by black, white and gradient hues of orange. Model's locks were entwined into messy braids and foreheads were painted white and grey, only heightening the spiritual and ethereal nature of the show.

This season has been great for menswear with many new points of view, expansions of previous ideas and interesting rehashes of old concepts. Many other notable collections were shown, such as Alexander Wang, Louis Vuitton and Saint Laurent to name a few, but I really wanted to try to keep this post short and to the point so I could begin my research on the Fall 2013 Couture collections! Hopefully that post will be up soon, although I have many other new ideas for this blog that will be posted in the weeks to come.

MENSWEAR SPRING/SUMMER 2014: PART 1

The chaotic and ephemeral moment in menswear is here once again. The Spring/Summer 2014 Menswear collections kicked off a week or so ago and has been going strong with a cacophony of different ideas and points of view coming from heavy hitters such as Prada, Calvin Klein Collection, Dolce & Gabbana and many others.

Tropical landscapes were the inspiration behind Muiccia Prada's joyful yet tense array of bright colored florals and Hawaiin prints. The set was aptly named "Menacing Paradise," due to it's palm fronds, sunsets and helicopters, the latter of which could be heard in the soundtrack. The destructive tendencies of humans seemed to be the underlying meaning behind the collection. Beautiful weather, beautiful surroundings and the ugliness of human nature.

Tropical tension at Prada's collection.

Nature played an important part in Italo Zucchelli's Calvin Klein Collection show as well, drawing inspiration from the ocean. Using virtually every shade of blue, the colors transitioned from royal blue to iris and ultramarine. Zucchelli stayed true to his cool and controlled aesthetic with a bit more of a street style inspired silhouette. Seascape printed color-blocked sweatshirts and t-shirts reminiscent of Balenciaga's sci-fi Fall/Winter 2012 collection appeared in flowing shades of pink and orange; the only colors seen in the collection other than blues, whites and blacks.

Favorite looks at Calvin Klein Collection,

Vivienne Westwood looked to India for her collection, drawing on kaftan prints and textured style in earthy hues against cool blue and cream tones. That is not to say, however that Westwood did not also draw on her London punk roots by designing white tartan suits and jackets.

Indian influences at Vivienne Westwood.

Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana once again represented Sicily, previously interpreting the Cathedral of Monreale and Sicilian menfolk, on their olive tree fledged runway. This time, Sicily's Greek-influenced mythology was the theme of the duo's collection. Zeus, Apollo and ancient ruins were printed on t-shirts, sweatshirts, button ups and shorts, paired with gladiator sandals.

Favorite looks at Dolce & Gabbana's collection.

Christopher Kane's collection was a wave of digital renditions juxtaposed on t-shirts, sweats, shorts and slacks. Prints of stark 3D faces and isobar-like patterns appeared in blues, yellows and reds as well as solid colored outfits. This digital age 19 look collection is like something out of the future, presenting Kane as some sort of technological shaman.

Digital renderings at Christopher Kane's collection.

An Adonis of a collection, Dolce & Gabbana's Sicilian daydream is one of my favorite collections thus far, as well as Christopher Kane's strikingly graphic and futuristic approach. Interestingly enough, these two shows interpreted polar opposite muses. Dolce & Gabbana's mythological approach created a light and effervescent mood, whereas Kane beckoned to the future with blunt and robotic accuracy.
Many more shows are imminent! I am most looking forward to Givenchy, Rick Owens and Saint Laurent's collections.
What has been your favorite collection thus far and who are you most looking forward to? Comment below and let me know!

THROWBACK THURSDAY

I've always had an affinity for iconography, film, fashion and pop culture in general and love seeing how it changes throughout decades, so I thought it would be fun to do something different than my previous posts and (hopefully) post a series of fashion-related videos, images etc. from the past that I find interesting or beautiful.
Drew Barrymore has long been one of my favorite 90s icons, so you can imagine my delight when I discovered this series of ad campaigns she did for, one of my favorite brands, Miu Miu in 1995.

Have a look below and let me know what you think of the photos as well as my new post idea!

Spring/Summer 1995 ad campaigns.

Fall/Winter 1995 ad campaigns.

STREET STYLE'S IMPACT

Unlike previous posts where the topic discussed impacted both high fashion and street fashion, street style is a branch of fashion that has most recently been muse to high end designers. Never before have bomber jackets, sneakers and hoodies shown up on the runway as they have these past couple seasons. With the advent of blogs, photographers are able to upload photos onto the internet of interesting outfits they see on the street, creating a whole new world for fashion advertisement. Many people, myself included, frequent blogs like Street Peeper, The Sartorialist and The Locals instead of browsing endless pages of online catalogs. Fashion week is no longer only about the collections, but also about what people are wearing while they wait for taxis and leave the shows.This has created a whole new type of fashion icon, where anybody can inspire others and can initiate trend that flows from the streets to the wealthy.

Balenciaga's space age sweater.

Although designers have looked to the streets for inspiration for many years- Isaac Mezrahi has said he was equally inspired by what someone on the street is wearing as he is by decadence- it was not until recently that these themes really showed up on the runway in abundance. Balenciaga had an array of spacey sweatshirts, Rag & Bone filled their collection with motocross jackets and quilted leather shorts and Saint Laurent looked to 1990s California grunge for inspiration, with a soundtrack by garage-rock band Thee Oh Sees. Jeremy Scott has worked with Adidas, and Céline has designed love-it-or-hate-it over sized hockey jersey-dress
Givenchy has gained huge commercial and urban success thanks to creative director Riccardo Tisci's new vision for the brand. Although he refers to his collections as "romantic," they are clearly street-inspired with boldly patterned bomber jackets, silk t-shirts and luxe sweatshirts flocking the runway. Creating the, otherwise nonexistent, menswear collections for the brand and collaborating with artists such as Jay-Z and Rihanna he has made a name for himself as the go to streetwear designer.

Jeremy Scott's collaboration with Adidas, Céline's jersey-dress, Saint Laurent's Fall/Winter 2012.

Givenchy's street-inspired collections.

In 2002, Humberto Leon and Carol Lim set up the Opening Ceremony store, collaborating with heritage brands and maintaining a downtown aesthetic. Nine years later, they were named the creative directors of dormant brand Kenzo, inducing a brand frenzy by working with skater brand Vans.
Alexander Wang has been name dropped by Die Antwoord and A$AP Rocky, both of which were featured in his T by Alexander Wang ad campaigns. Not surprising for a designer who had his start by designing a hoodie and expanded this aesthetic through his downtown cool collections.

Rag & Bones, Kenzo and Alexander Wang have all been influenced by streetwear.

Street style icons Gwen Stefani, Kanye West, Rihanna and A$AP Rocky.

Many people are on the fence about this low-end meets high-end style, so comment below and tell me if you love or hate it!