Monday 24 June 2013

MENSWEAR SPRING/SUMMER 2014: PART 1

The chaotic and ephemeral moment in menswear is here once again. The Spring/Summer 2014 Menswear collections kicked off a week or so ago and has been going strong with a cacophony of different ideas and points of view coming from heavy hitters such as Prada, Calvin Klein Collection, Dolce & Gabbana and many others.

Tropical landscapes were the inspiration behind Muiccia Prada's joyful yet tense array of bright colored florals and Hawaiin prints. The set was aptly named "Menacing Paradise," due to it's palm fronds, sunsets and helicopters, the latter of which could be heard in the soundtrack. The destructive tendencies of humans seemed to be the underlying meaning behind the collection. Beautiful weather, beautiful surroundings and the ugliness of human nature.

Tropical tension at Prada's collection.








Nature played an important part in Italo Zucchelli's Calvin Klein Collection show as well, drawing inspiration from the ocean. Using virtually every shade of blue, the colors transitioned from royal blue to iris and ultramarine. Zucchelli stayed true to his cool and controlled aesthetic with a bit more of a street style inspired silhouette. Seascape printed color-blocked sweatshirts and t-shirts reminiscent of Balenciaga's sci-fi Fall/Winter 2012 collection appeared in flowing shades of pink and orange; the only colors seen in the collection other than blues, whites and blacks.

Favorite looks at Calvin Klein Collection,

Vivienne Westwood looked to India for her collection, drawing on kaftan prints and textured style in earthy hues against cool blue and cream tones. That is not to say, however that Westwood did not also draw on her London punk roots by designing white tartan suits and jackets.

Indian influences at Vivienne Westwood.












Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana once again represented Sicily, previously interpreting the Cathedral of Monreale and Sicilian menfolk, on their olive tree fledged runway. This time, Sicily's Greek-influenced mythology was the theme of the duo's collection. Zeus, Apollo and ancient ruins were printed on t-shirts, sweatshirts, button ups and shorts, paired with gladiator sandals.

Favorite looks at Dolce & Gabbana's collection.

Christopher Kane's collection was a wave of digital renditions juxtaposed on t-shirts, sweats, shorts and slacks. Prints of stark 3D faces and isobar-like patterns appeared in blues, yellows and reds as well as solid colored outfits. This digital age 19 look collection is like something out of the future, presenting Kane as some sort of technological shaman.

Digital renderings at Christopher Kane's collection.






An Adonis of a collection, Dolce & Gabbana's Sicilian daydream is one of my favorite collections thus far, as well as Christopher Kane's strikingly graphic and futuristic approach. Interestingly enough, these two shows interpreted polar opposite muses. Dolce & Gabbana's mythological approach created a light and effervescent mood, whereas Kane beckoned to the future with blunt and robotic accuracy.
Many more shows are imminent! I am most looking forward to Givenchy, Rick Owens and Saint Laurent's collections.
What has been your favorite collection thus far and who are you most looking forward to? Comment below and let me know!

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