I'M BACK!!! / THROWBACK THURSDAY: PAGAN POETRY

My travels through Europe have gone by and I have returned home with many exciting stories, ideas and photos! After two weeks of being home from the five week excursion I feel rejuvenated and ready to share all these amazing things with you. Most notably, while in Paris I spent a day wandering the streets and visiting all of the flagship stores. Definitely one of my highlights of the trip, it was so incredible to be able to see all of the pieces I've been silently obsessing over in person and actually being able to touch them! (Yes, I know it sounds silly but I don't have access to designer brands here!) I will be writing an entire post dedicated to all of the concept stores soon, with photos. To ease myself back into blogging I thought it would be fun to do another Throwback Thursday post. (I realize I'm not posting this on a Thursday but I'm typing it on one, so it counts... right?)

Having grown up listening to the Icelandic alien woman that is Bjork, I have always been fascinated by her unusual imagery, enticing voice and conceptual lyrics. Always managing to shock and confuse with her progressive videos, when 2001's Verspertine came out its second single "Pagan Poetry" did just that.
The song itself is a bizarre 5 minute ethereal masterpiece and the video is no different; stated as a story "about a woman preparing herself for marriage and for her lover," it was directed by prolific fashion photographer Nick Knight and featured, sometimes graphic, blurred out images of ejaculation, fellatio and skin piercing. Bjork appears in a in-body pierced wedding dress designed by the late Alexander McQueen, which covers only the bottom half of her body, leaving her pearl-adorned breasts free and in plain sight.
MTV banned it in the United States, only later showing the unedited version on MTV2 during a "20 Most Controversial Videos" countdown.
When asked about the video, Nick Knight explained "I gave her [Bjork] a Sony Mini DV Camera and asked her to shoot her own private scenes [...] She wanted me to make a film about her love life, so I merely gave it back to her and said, 'Film your love life.'" Genius.

SUMMER JAMS

The beautiful weather I've been blessed with has made it difficult to pry myself away from the beach and the garden to work on new blog posts. Of course I love researching fashion and writing about what I've learnt, but the fickle breeze is daunting here and I speak from experience when I say it is better to get out into the heat as fast as possible and soak up the last of the sun's rays.
So, in honor of summer, I thought I would do something a bit different and share a playlist featuring a couple new and old songs I've been listening to  while reading, tanning and walking in the heat.
Happy summer!

MENSWEAR SPRING/SUMMER 2014: PART 2

By the time you read this the menswear Spring/Summer 2014 collections will have come to a close a week or so ago, leaving many in a state of reverie. This post has been a long time coming due to the beautiful weather and sun rays I've been soaking up, but I have been busily viewing all the photos and videos of every runway show I can get my hands on. I would have loved to write about all the major collections, but with so many it's proven to be very difficult, therefore I've decided to speak of my favorites!

Riccardo Tisci's reinvention of Givenchy has made him one of my favorite contemporary designers. His constant innovation has popularized of the most progressive minds in menswear, aswell as womenswear and this season was no different, his collection appearing as a clear standout. Although he essentially reworks the same silhouettes every season, his prints are always spectacular. In previous seasons, he drew from his past, however this season he went in a different direction. The prints were based on the technology of sound, broken down and rearranged into tribal patterns. Backstage after the show, Tisci explained that the "Givenchy man" has always been a warrior and that this season he wanted to start working on a nerd. The freedom of African boys and the way they layered their clothes also played a large part in the collection. The result is a futuristic, yet retro study of techno-tribalism and reminds me of Star Wars! Tisci's womenswear and menswear collections often go hand in hand, so it will be interesting to see his upcoming Spring/Summer 2014 collection!

Raf Simons' collection was shown in an obscure gallery in an industrial suburb outside of Paris, flanked by Alexander Calder's kinetic sculptures. The bulk of the collection was held together by an array of oversized t-shirts worn as dresses, shorts with high hemlines and pinafores, playing with gender stereotypes. The prints on the garments were most definitely a comment on consumerism; large bold lettering reading "THIS IS THE NEW SHAPE" and "ARTIFICIALLY FLAVORED" made models appear as walking billboards. However, it was done in a free and light way so the they looked fun and wearable, without appearing too serious.

Appropriately named after Lou Reed's classic 1972 song, Rick Owens' "Vicious" opened to the banshee sounds of an Estonian death metal band called Winny Puhh. The models practically ran to the beat of the sledgehammering drums, leaving onlookers in awe. For those who caught fleeting glimpses of the warrior-like men, the garments were fierce in gothic athleticism; long-sleeved tees worn over shorts, leather and mesh tanktops showing flesh underneath and zippers were all mainstays. Although this collection is not a breakaway from Owens' established aesthetic, it packs a menacing punch that I'm particularly fond of.
While researching this collection, I came across an interview Owens did in which he states "The biggest risk I take is staying true to myself and doing my thing, which could be repetitive to a lot of people..."

Swedish brand Acne Studios' designer Jonny Johansson openly attributes his latest collection to abstract art innovator Hilma af Klint, who's progressive paintings came well before Mondrian and Picasso. Klint's palette of pastel pinks, yellows and blues are what drew Johansson in. The influence is obvious in the metallic-heavy collection; washed out red, pink and blue fabrics were used to make sweatshirts, dinner and bomber jackets, and wide legged trousers. I always find it interesting when designers go in complete different directions, trying new and exciting things. In this case, Johansson rebelled against the sportswear trend and went for a 1970s throwback which I absolutely love.

Although I commended Jonny Johansson for his alternative outlook, it is not to say that I don't love the sportswear trend; I'm not quite sure what it is about it, but I'm a sucker for oversized jerseys, bomber jackets, athletic shorts and sweatshirts.
I was previously unaware of relatively Korean designer Juun.J who designs strictly menswear, however when I stumbled upon reoccurring photos of his latest collection on Tumblr and Instagram, I thought it worthwhile to check out his collection in its entirety and I was not disappointed.
Traditionally labelled a deconstructionist this season he tackled American athleticism, offering thigh-high shorts, boxy sweatshirts embellished with 3D numbers, and large trench coats. I love the blown up silhouettes and nerdy styling meets athletic aesthetic of this collection and am looking forward to following Juun.J's future shows!

One word to describe Yohji Yamamoto's Spring/Summer 2014 collection? Layering. When asked about the inspiration behind the look, Yamamoto explained he was fascinated with nomads and the way they wear all the clothing they own and somehow turn it into a fashion statement. Pants, shorts and jackets were baggy and airy, primarily in shades of grey and accented by black, white and gradient hues of orange. Model's locks were entwined into messy braids and foreheads were painted white and grey, only heightening the spiritual and ethereal nature of the show.

This season has been great for menswear with many new points of view, expansions of previous ideas and interesting rehashes of old concepts. Many other notable collections were shown, such as Alexander Wang, Louis Vuitton and Saint Laurent to name a few, but I really wanted to try to keep this post short and to the point so I could begin my research on the Fall 2013 Couture collections! Hopefully that post will be up soon, although I have many other new ideas for this blog that will be posted in the weeks to come.

MENSWEAR SPRING/SUMMER 2014: PART 1

The chaotic and ephemeral moment in menswear is here once again. The Spring/Summer 2014 Menswear collections kicked off a week or so ago and has been going strong with a cacophony of different ideas and points of view coming from heavy hitters such as Prada, Calvin Klein Collection, Dolce & Gabbana and many others.

Tropical landscapes were the inspiration behind Muiccia Prada's joyful yet tense array of bright colored florals and Hawaiin prints. The set was aptly named "Menacing Paradise," due to it's palm fronds, sunsets and helicopters, the latter of which could be heard in the soundtrack. The destructive tendencies of humans seemed to be the underlying meaning behind the collection. Beautiful weather, beautiful surroundings and the ugliness of human nature.

Tropical tension at Prada's collection.

Nature played an important part in Italo Zucchelli's Calvin Klein Collection show as well, drawing inspiration from the ocean. Using virtually every shade of blue, the colors transitioned from royal blue to iris and ultramarine. Zucchelli stayed true to his cool and controlled aesthetic with a bit more of a street style inspired silhouette. Seascape printed color-blocked sweatshirts and t-shirts reminiscent of Balenciaga's sci-fi Fall/Winter 2012 collection appeared in flowing shades of pink and orange; the only colors seen in the collection other than blues, whites and blacks.

Favorite looks at Calvin Klein Collection,

Vivienne Westwood looked to India for her collection, drawing on kaftan prints and textured style in earthy hues against cool blue and cream tones. That is not to say, however that Westwood did not also draw on her London punk roots by designing white tartan suits and jackets.

Indian influences at Vivienne Westwood.

Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana once again represented Sicily, previously interpreting the Cathedral of Monreale and Sicilian menfolk, on their olive tree fledged runway. This time, Sicily's Greek-influenced mythology was the theme of the duo's collection. Zeus, Apollo and ancient ruins were printed on t-shirts, sweatshirts, button ups and shorts, paired with gladiator sandals.

Favorite looks at Dolce & Gabbana's collection.

Christopher Kane's collection was a wave of digital renditions juxtaposed on t-shirts, sweats, shorts and slacks. Prints of stark 3D faces and isobar-like patterns appeared in blues, yellows and reds as well as solid colored outfits. This digital age 19 look collection is like something out of the future, presenting Kane as some sort of technological shaman.

Digital renderings at Christopher Kane's collection.

An Adonis of a collection, Dolce & Gabbana's Sicilian daydream is one of my favorite collections thus far, as well as Christopher Kane's strikingly graphic and futuristic approach. Interestingly enough, these two shows interpreted polar opposite muses. Dolce & Gabbana's mythological approach created a light and effervescent mood, whereas Kane beckoned to the future with blunt and robotic accuracy.
Many more shows are imminent! I am most looking forward to Givenchy, Rick Owens and Saint Laurent's collections.
What has been your favorite collection thus far and who are you most looking forward to? Comment below and let me know!

THROWBACK THURSDAY

I've always had an affinity for iconography, film, fashion and pop culture in general and love seeing how it changes throughout decades, so I thought it would be fun to do something different than my previous posts and (hopefully) post a series of fashion-related videos, images etc. from the past that I find interesting or beautiful.
Drew Barrymore has long been one of my favorite 90s icons, so you can imagine my delight when I discovered this series of ad campaigns she did for, one of my favorite brands, Miu Miu in 1995.

Have a look below and let me know what you think of the photos as well as my new post idea!

Spring/Summer 1995 ad campaigns.

Fall/Winter 1995 ad campaigns.

STREET STYLE'S IMPACT

Unlike previous posts where the topic discussed impacted both high fashion and street fashion, street style is a branch of fashion that has most recently been muse to high end designers. Never before have bomber jackets, sneakers and hoodies shown up on the runway as they have these past couple seasons. With the advent of blogs, photographers are able to upload photos onto the internet of interesting outfits they see on the street, creating a whole new world for fashion advertisement. Many people, myself included, frequent blogs like Street Peeper, The Sartorialist and The Locals instead of browsing endless pages of online catalogs. Fashion week is no longer only about the collections, but also about what people are wearing while they wait for taxis and leave the shows.This has created a whole new type of fashion icon, where anybody can inspire others and can initiate trend that flows from the streets to the wealthy.

Balenciaga's space age sweater.

Although designers have looked to the streets for inspiration for many years- Isaac Mezrahi has said he was equally inspired by what someone on the street is wearing as he is by decadence- it was not until recently that these themes really showed up on the runway in abundance. Balenciaga had an array of spacey sweatshirts, Rag & Bone filled their collection with motocross jackets and quilted leather shorts and Saint Laurent looked to 1990s California grunge for inspiration, with a soundtrack by garage-rock band Thee Oh Sees. Jeremy Scott has worked with Adidas, and Céline has designed love-it-or-hate-it over sized hockey jersey-dress
Givenchy has gained huge commercial and urban success thanks to creative director Riccardo Tisci's new vision for the brand. Although he refers to his collections as "romantic," they are clearly street-inspired with boldly patterned bomber jackets, silk t-shirts and luxe sweatshirts flocking the runway. Creating the, otherwise nonexistent, menswear collections for the brand and collaborating with artists such as Jay-Z and Rihanna he has made a name for himself as the go to streetwear designer.

Jeremy Scott's collaboration with Adidas, Céline's jersey-dress, Saint Laurent's Fall/Winter 2012.

Givenchy's street-inspired collections.

In 2002, Humberto Leon and Carol Lim set up the Opening Ceremony store, collaborating with heritage brands and maintaining a downtown aesthetic. Nine years later, they were named the creative directors of dormant brand Kenzo, inducing a brand frenzy by working with skater brand Vans.
Alexander Wang has been name dropped by Die Antwoord and A$AP Rocky, both of which were featured in his T by Alexander Wang ad campaigns. Not surprising for a designer who had his start by designing a hoodie and expanded this aesthetic through his downtown cool collections.

Rag & Bones, Kenzo and Alexander Wang have all been influenced by streetwear.

Street style icons Gwen Stefani, Kanye West, Rihanna and A$AP Rocky.

Many people are on the fence about this low-end meets high-end style, so comment below and tell me if you love or hate it!

ART'S IMPACT

The centuries-old love affair between art and fashion is easily one of the most recognizable relationships in creative industries. From the Renaissance, when painters attempted to capture the texture, color and form of clothing in their works, to today, where models are sent down the runway in wearable works of art, the influence has flowed both ways.
Possibly the most notable example of this relationship is Mexican painter Frida Kahlo. Contracting polio at age six and suffering serious injuries in a train car accident, she opted for long skirts and flowing blouses that covered her thin right leg and stiff corsets for her back pain. An exhibit opened in 2012 at the Frida Kahlo Museum in Mexico City, displaying over 300 items of clothing, jewelry and headpieces worn by the artist. Also featured in the exhibit is a Kahlo-influenced corset designed by Rei Kawakubo.
Jean Paul Gauliter's Spring/Summer 1998 collection was admittedly inspired by Kahlo and her legacy is evident in present day fashion, from Dolce & Gabbana's Spring/Summer 2013 collection to the re-popularization of the floral headband.

The Broken Column's impact on fashion, seen through Rei Kawakubo's corset.

Kahlo's iconic floral headbands have impacted current fashion icon Lana Del Rey's personal style.

In 1965, Yves Saint Laurent debuted the Mondrian Dress, a color-blocked shift dress with the famous painter's Composition II in Red, Blue, And Yellow printed across its front and back. Its positive reception lead to it being featured on the cover of Vogue and launched Saint Laurent's career to new heights. Similarly,  Jean-Charles de Castelbajac has reproduced Andy Warhol's famous Campbell's Soup Cans on dresses as well as created an outlandish dress incorporating the same artist's Self Portrait. Warhol also influenced Versace; in 1991 the brand did a collection of evening gowns and tailored jackets splicing his world renowned Marilyn silkscreens with portraits of James Dean.

Composition II in Red, Blue, And Yellow, the painting behind YSL's iconic shift dress.

Andy Warhol's Self Portrait (top) and Marilyn (bottom) silk screens' impact on fashion.

Austrian painter Gustav Klimt has also inspired designers over the years. Sarah Burton's Spring/Summer 2013 collection for Alexander McQueen saw models walking down the runway in headpieces reminiscent of Klimt's signature gilt and gold-toned mosaics. In 2008, Dior's Spring collection was undeniably Klimt inspired, featuring floor-length tunics encrusted with gold appliqués, blown out hairstyles and bejeweled geometric patterns. A more subtle homage came from Rick Owens in his Spring/Summer 2013 collection. Like Dior, the blown out hair was a necessity, but the golds were more washed out and ethereal.

Dior and Alexander McQueen have looked to Klimt's paintings Hope II (Vision) and Adele Bloch-Bauer I for inspiration.

Rodarte have been open about their affinity for Renaissance artwork, reprinting some of Vincent van Gogh's most influential paintings, from The Starry Night to Sunflowers on airy dresses for their Spring/Summer 2012 collections. In 2011 they unveiled "Rodarte: Fra Anglico," a collection completely inspired by the Italian artist's work, at Los Angeles County Museum of Art.

Of all artists, surrealist innovator Salvador Dali has perhaps had the closest relationship with fashion. Although his iconic moustache has changed facial grooming forever and is what most people associate with him, it was his collaborations with Italian designer Elsa Schiaparelli that gave him fashion credibility. The two worked intimately, recreating some his most iconic works; The Lobster Dress was an homage to the mixed-media Lobster Telephone and The Tears Dress referenced Necrophiliac Springtime, The Dream Places A Hand on a Man's Shoulder and Three Young Surrealist Women Holding in Their Arms the Skins of an Orchestra. In 1933, Dali was photographed by his wife wearing one of her slippers on his head, prompting Schiaparelli to design a shoe-like hat for her Fall/Winter 1938 collection.

Artists continue to inspire fashion, with Surrealism being the inspiration behind Tilda Swinton's recent cover shoot for W Magazine, in which the actress poses in a variety of surrealist-inspired garments in the heart of Xilitla, Mexico. Dali references are prominent throughout the spread and quotes by English eccentric and surrealist collector Edward James are painted in cursive in the margins.

Schiaparelli and Dali's collaborations alongside the works that inspired them.

Dali's Ruby Lips brooch and a photo from Swinton's shoot for W Magazine.

Who are your favorite artists and why?

MUSIC'S IMPACT

Music and fashion have long gone hand in hand. Like most creative industries, they find innovative ways of gaining commercial success through collaboration. The soundtrack chosen to accompany a runway show has the ability to convey the designer's aesthetic in ways a silent show could not. The musical selection also has the power to reel in media attention and new fans. Lady Gaga premiered her song "Bad Romance" at Alexander McQueen's Spring/Summer 2010 show, which urged an overwhelming amount of people to log onto SHOWstudio, where they could live stream the collection. A few months later, the music video for "Bad Romance" came out, featuring Lady Gaga in an array of McQueen designs from the very same collection. This sort of merging of the two worlds commanded the world's attention and launched Lady Gaga's stardom to new heights. Likewise, Alexander Wang has used up & coming internet sensations such as Die Antwoord and Azealia Banks in his T by Alexander Wang campaigns, which has helped both the artists featured, as well as Wang in being recognized beyond their industry.
This, however, is more of a marketing strategy than a creative influence. Since it's popularization, fashion has been somewhat dependent on music for inspiration. The Metropolitan Museum of Art's latest costume institute exhibition, "PUNK: Chaos to Couture," is living proof of music's predominant force. The exhibit features punk-inspired garments by Commes Des Garçons, Karl Lagerfeld and Riccardo Tisci, Yohji Yamamoto and Vivienne Westwood, amongst many other talented designers. Punk icons include Debbie Harry of Blondie, Siouxsie Sioux of Siouxsie & The Banshees and Patti Smith, who all had easily recognizable aesthetics. Millions of girls were impacted by these women and adopted Harry's peroxide blonde hair, ripped t-shirts and mix-match pattern choices, Sioux's goth-punk look and Smith's androgynous wardrobe.

John Lyndon and Gary Wilson's impact on high fashion. (Commes Des Garcons Autumn/Winter 2006-7 & Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2011.)

With the rise of disco in the late 1970s, Diana Ross made sequined dresses, big hair and effortless glamour a most desirable look. Madonna burst onto the scene in the 1980s and brought with her an abundance of bandannas, rubber bracelets, mix-matched tights and rosary beads, forever changing women's street style. The 1990s saw anti- fashion icon Kurt Cobain popularize grunge fashions such as ripped jeans, ripped sweaters, converse and Dr. Martens boots. Belly tops and sneakers were brought back into the spotlight in the early 2000s with the help of Britney Spears.

Music fashion through the decades. L to R: Diana Ross, Madonna, Kurt Cobain, Britney Spears.

In high fashion, perhaps the best example of music's impact is Jean Paul Gaultier's Spring/Summer 2013 collection, in which he drew inspiration from 80s popstars such as Grace Jones, Madonna, David Bowie, Boy George. Since being appointed creative director of Saint Laurent Paris, Hedi Slimane has launched the Saint Laurent Music Project campaigns, depicting a number of rock stars styling themselves in the label's collections. Marilyn Manson, Courtney Love and Daft Punk have all been featured so far, but the list grows by the season. In addition, Slimane's Fall/Winter 2013 collection for the brand was admittedly inspired by the 90s California grunge scene.

Grace Jones' influence on fashion, seen though Jean Paul Gaultier's Spring/Summer 2013 collection.

Marilyn Manson and Courtney Love's campaigns for Saint Laurent.

Who are your favorite musical fashion icons? Let me know by commenting below!

FILM'S IMPACT

Transience is something that always has and always will be the driving force of the fashion industry. Trends and collections come and go by the season, forcing designers and brands to often look to the past for inspiration. Luckily, film is something that has the preeminent ability to reflect a generation as well as transform it. Films also have have the power to elevate actors to new heights as fashion icons; when a Givenchy-clad Audrey Hepburn lingered outside Tiffany & Co carrying a coffee and danish in Breakfast at Tiffany's the 'little black dress' was created and forever changed the fashion world. This wasn't the first time Hepburn starred in a game changing movie; in Funny Face, she played a shy bookstore clerk turned world renowned model who opted for a black turtleneck, black pants and flats while off screen and refined Edith Head-designed gowns while on screen. This pseudo-androgynous look, brought to the limelight by Marlene Dietrich, was later expanded by Diane Keaton in Woody Allen's Annie Hall, in which she wore typically formal menswear pieces with a relaxed fit and an equally relaxed attitude. Three decades later Uma Thurman, as Mia Wallace in Pulp Fiction. was seen wearing a crisp white button-up shirt, black pants and flats while dancing to Chuck Berry with John Travolta.

L to R: Uma Thurman in Pulp Fiction, Audrey Hepburn in Funny Face and Diane Keaton in Annie Hall.

When Brigitte Bardot appeared in ...And God Created Woman lounging on the beach in a hardly-there bikini, swimwear forever changed. Hers was a new type of sultry style that nobody had ever seen before and that everybody wanted to replicate. Conservatives were outraged by the amount of skin being shown however this did not stop actresses such as Raquel Welch in One Million Years B.C and Ursula Andress in Dr. No, along with women the world over, to adopt this new look.

Although fashion was the last thing on Alfred Hitchcock's mind while directing his iconic films, he always succeeded in creating glamorous and well-dressed women that command your attention as soon as they step on screen. In The Birds, Tippi Hedren can be seen donning an over sized fur coat and a chic mint green ensemble. Grace Kelly, like Audrey Hepburn, wears many Edith Head designs in Rear Window as well as a trinket around her wrist that jingles gracefully with her every movement. Mysterious black veils, luxurious furs and opulent headpieces are worn by Marlene Dietrich in Stage Fright.
Hitchcock's legendary women have gone on to inspire many designers through the years, most recently Marc Jacob's Autumn/Winter 2013 collection for Louis Vuitton; the designer had the models walk through a hotel-like runway and enigmatically enter their supposed 'rooms' to the sound of a very cinematic score. This entire collection had a very ominous and suspenseful feeling, much like Hitchcock's films.

Tippi Hedren in The Birds (left) and Louis Vuitton Autumn/Winter 2013 (right)

On the complete other side of the spectrum, where styles are much more urban and edgy, films from the 80's and 90's reign supreme. In Desperately Seeking Susan, Madonna plays a carefree It girl living in New York  (essentially playing herself.) She rocks everything from lace fishnets paired with men's boxers to vintage tees with frilly skirts, depicting the devil-may-care attitude of 80's New York. The fashions in this film have inspired current superstar Rihanna's personal style as well as current street style.
Singles and Poison Ivy define the 90's grunge style perfectly, showcasing Dr. Martens boots, heavy leather jackets, cut offs and ripped jeans. Although none will ever admit it, these films offered fashion inspiration to devotees of this counterculture and continue to impact street style today.

L to R: Madonna's iconic pyramid jacket in Desperately Seeking Susan, Drew Barrymore in Poison Ivy and Bridget Fonda and Matt Dillon in Singles.

Movies continue to influence both high fashion and street fashion today, with films like Marie Antoinette, The Girl With The Dragon Tattoo, Avatar, Coco Before Chanel and, most recently, The Great Gatsby all providing inspiration for designers around the world.

Avatar's influence on high fashion as seen through Jean Paul Gaultier (left and right) and Valentino's (middle) collections.

With so many iconic fashion films, it is impossible to list them all. Comment below and tell me your favorite ones!